As soon as you arrive in San Cristobal you are going to hear other travelers mentioning the famous ‘chicken church’. You will hear how incredible it is, and how you must see it for yourself. Your new dorm mates won’t be able to show you photos as this is forbidden inside the church, and so the mystery grows.
This is what I experienced on my first afternoon in San Cristobal, and so the very next morning I hopped on the bus to visit Chamula Church. I had no idea what to expect, or even whether it would be worth my time.
What I witnessed was one of the most unique scenes of my entire trip. If you visit just one church in Mexico, make sure it is this one!
What is Chamula Church?
Chamula Church, or Iglesia de San Juan Chamula, is located 20 minutes outside of San Cristobal, in the small town of Chamula. The exterior of the church is simple but stunning, painted white with a bright green doorway, filled with colourful shapes. However, it is the rituals that take place once you are inside the large wooden doors that have made this church so famous.
It seems to be an unwritten rule amongst travelers that the activities that take place inside should remain a secret. Having no idea what to expect makes the experience even more magical when you step inside.
I’m going to keep to that tradition. However, there are two things I will say. Firstly, be prepared to see an animal sacrifice. Secondly, this is the most unique church I have ever seen around the world, making this an absolute must-do if you are spending time in San Cristobal!
How to visit without joining a tour
Tour agencies around San Cristobal will promote Chamula Church as a half-day trip, with prices starting at about £15/$19. The tours sound interesting, taking you to two local towns including Chamula.
However, if you are on a budget, this is an easy excursion to organise yourself for about £3/$4. Besides from being easy and cheap, doing this on my own meant I was the only tourist inside the church. I think if I had been with a large group, it would have ruined the peaceful, hypnotic atmosphere I experienced.
The cheapest way to get to the town of Chamula is by colectivo. The colectivo station is located a short walk from the centre of San Cristobal. It can be found on Google Maps as ‘Colectivo San Juan Chamula’. The journey takes less than half an hour and the return price is about £1.86/$2.30.
The colectivo will either stop in the square directly in front of the church or in the centre of the town. If you experience the latter, it is less than a 10-minute walk down the hill to the church. Once you start walking you should be able to spot the church in the distance.
Just like the rest of Chiapas, you will come across women wearing traditional clothing such as black, woolen skirts.
Buy a ticket at the office located to the left side of the church, which costs £1.40/$1.80. Present this ticket to the guard sitting outside the entrance and enter the candle-lit, magical room. You will probably want to spend at least half an hour inside, watching the special rituals that are taking place.
When you are ready to leave, there will be many colectivos waiting in the square right outside, many heading for San Cristobal. Easy peasy!
When to visit
This church is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, but some days are better than others. Sundays are the busiest day of the week, with the town also home to a large market. The performance of rituals is discouraged on Wednesdays and so this would normally be the day of the week with the least amount of activity inside.
Photography
It is absolutely forbidden to take photos inside the church, which has helped keep the mystery of the church alive in the travel community. The indigenous people that live and carry out rituals here are the Tzotzil people. They believe that if a photo is taken of them, their soul is trapped inside it.
Make sure you respect this, they take it very seriously and you could be fined, banned from the town, or even put in jail.
I would avoid taking your phone out completely. I made the mistake of taking my phone out of my bag to reply to a text, and within 30 seconds a man was demanding to see my camera roll and my recently deleted.
Chamula Church was one of the most unique experiences I have ever had whilst traveling. I would love to tell you more about what happens inside, but I believe it is best experienced with no expectations. Be prepared to be amazed!
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